I do not make my own wigs. It’s something that takes a lot of experience that I have neither the time nor the patience to gain. That doesn’t mean that I’m not aware of the process, just that I prefer to buy my wigs ready to wear. However there are women out there who enjoy making their own wigs and the results are amazing. So I figure that as my good deed for the day, I can help out and give you a guide on how to create what are the most popular wigs on the market: the lace front wig.
First if you never have before, you have to measure your head for size. It’s recommended that you wrap your head in cellophane and then twist it just under your ear lobes for a good fit. Once that’s done you’ll have to cover the cellophane with strips of filament tape. Do this four times so that you’ll have four layers of tape, once that’s done you’ll have an excellent cast of your head.
For this next step you’ll need a wig block. Place the cast of your head onto the wig block, then use a grease pencil to trace the hairline of your head from the edges of the cast around the wig block. Now with put a large polyester cotton lace on the wig block and cut it around the outline you made. Place a finer lace onto top of that first piece and pin them both down on the wig block from front to back. Also place pins around the edge.
Now let’s get to the tough part, preparing the hair. From lace front wigs it’s recommended to use human hair, but a high quality synthetic is okay to. Either way place the hair on the hackle. Then you strip and blend the hair with the hackle. (Hackle: a large comb with several rows of sharp metal teeth). You’ll have to place the hair between the teeth of the hackle (bonus if you want highlights just place the synthetic hair on top).
Now pull the hair through the comb. This process will remove weak strands and any tangled hair so don’t worry if you see hair being removed (also if you’re blending hair for highlights turn the hair over to check that the blending is working). Once you’re done hackling you can cut the ends of the hair to remove any trailing strandings. Next press the tail into a holding card.
Note that for this part that you’ll need a hooked needle. Using this tool you can pull out a few strands from the tail by starting from the name of the neck. Use the needle to pass these strands into the lace and knot. This process is called ventilating and will take a bit of time so patience is key. Use one strand at a time when you’re knotting hair that the front of the lace wig. That will make it look more natural which is the key reason why this wig is so popular. Also for a more natural hairline you can bleach the lace but you’ll have to be careful not to ruin the hair.
Once you’re done the ventilating process you can style and trim the wig and remove the excess lace from the edges. I know all of this might sound really confusing as it’s just a long pack of instructions which is why I suggest that you watch videos on YouTube. There are a ton that will help make this process clearer for you especially the key ventilation process. They’ll also help you with the styling. Good luck.